Rebellion, Coup d'etat, Cabin Fever- and a Wedding!

Conufsion. Uncertainity. Doubt. Worry. These are all the feelings that we Peace Corps volunteers and many Malians have been experiencing in the last week, since the millitary seized power and the president fled. Also equally disconcerting is the rebellion by the Touaregs in the North of Mali, who want to establish their own state. It is truly a whirlwind of events, and many of us, myself included, long to be back in village, in the gentle pace of things. But that is not to be, not yet at least!

We have been grouped together at regional hostels to outwait the current storm. Today is the 8th day here and the whole situation is really starting to get to us. Living in a constant state of uncertainty is wearing on the spirit. So much free time leads to doleful reflections, which is why we are trying to keep occupied. We painted a map of Mali which does not look half bad. Also, I re-read King Lear, naturally, concerned as I am with themes of universal CHAOS and knowledge through suffering. I read it in the hope of purging unhealthy emotions, of course. Don't know if it worked.

This whole situation has some added resonance for me personally, as last January I was serving in Niger when that program was closed due to security concerns. That whole process of leaving was painful, and I cannot fathom experiencing it again. I dearly hope that this current political situation resolves itself, that people make the right decisions and that life can return to normal. But this is not often the case, is it? And hope not only sustains but destroys as well...

Well, enough ranting and emoting. I'll say a few words about village life. Due to lack of rains and a resulting poor harvest most of the men of my village and even some women have gone elsewhere to find paying work. Many have gone to the gold mines in Senegal. The result is the village is a little lonely, especially as most of my fellow young men have gone away. But the situations is really quite desperate this year, forcing them to leave. Hopefully they may find some good paying work, as they really do need the money.

I had an interesting cultural experience, so I guess I should share with you, my Reader! I had the privilege to attend a wedding, which lasted for 3 days. Afterwards I wrote a handwritten journal about it in village and now I will copy that entry for you here:

"March 16, 2012- 11:21 PM. [Name of my village], Mali.

Hello! I have so much to tell! Where even do I begin? Well, I just spent 3 days at a wedding. It was like this:

-I spent the 3 days mostly with the groom and many young men around my age sitting in a room at the groom's father's house.

-The groom and young men were well-dressed in clean new collared shirts and slacks. As was I.

-We feasted heartily (no small thing in a poor village). We dined on goat and a spicy rice dish and cous cous with peanut butter sauce and bread and coffee and candies and more.

-We danced! First, some traditional drummers came, and later we listened to current pop music.

-Much tea was brewed. Some cigarettes were smoked.

-Prayers and blessings and speeches were spoken from time to time.

-My good friend Seydou went to the window and blew a horn made of animal bone at every meal time, as a signal to the other young men that 'It's eatin' time!'

-Many kola nuts were distributed, usually in conjunction with speeches and blessings. Kola nuts are very important here, as signs of respect.

-The tone of the wedding was mostly jovial, with a few tense moments. (Seydou explained to me later that a few traditional customs had not been respected, which led to some heated debates).

-A group of young women, corresponding in age to our group, would come to the room we were staying in and greet us, sit with us, chat, and dance. They wore fancy colorful dresses, had their hair covered, and wore makeup and henna. Some were wearing jewelry, earring and bracelets.

And I was a part of it all, even though I didn't catch everything that was said. Woo!

Bakari Danyogo and Oumou Dembele, may your marriage truly endure and prosper.

LIVE AND LOVE BABY!"

Okay, entry done! Well, at least the parts that I want to share... Good bye for now. Here's the latest (and positive!) news on Mali:

http://www.aljazeera.com/news/africa/2012/04/20124181943166936.html